An daidaita wannan yanki daga Tufafi: Mata Masu Tasirin Kayayyakin Faransanci (MIT Press), wanda MIT News Reader ne ya buga kuma aka sake buga shi anan tare da izini.
Shugabannin fashion suna ci gaba da haɓaka ƙoƙarinsu bayan da COP26 ta yi kira da gaske ga duniya da ta ɗauki mataki kan sauyin yanayi.Chloé ya zama alamar alatu ta farko da ta cimma matsayin "B Corporation" da ake so kuma a yanzu tana da hatimin amincewa, yana nuna himma don ragewa. Tasirinsa a kan mutane da duniya ta hanyar amfani da makamashi mai sabuntawa da kayan da aka samo asali, a tsakanin daruruwan sauran ayyukan s lalacewa. The Worn Wear Center a Patagonia yana jagorantar cinikayya-in amma har yanzu nau'in tufafin da za a iya amfani da shi. Yana daidaitawa tare da girma "cin kasuwa mai alhakin. "Kamfanoni masu tasowa ThredUp (wanda aka kafa a cikin 2009), Poshmark (wanda aka kafa a 2011) da The RealReal (wanda aka kafa a cikin 2011) .Ma'amaloli da aka jera, duk ukun suna da girma mai girma, amma ba tukuna babban riba ba.
A lokaci guda kuma, kafofin watsa labaru na zamani, da WWD musamman, suna bin diddigin da'awar zamba ta samfuran alatu kamar Coach na ayyukan da ake zato masu hankali waɗanda aka gano suna lalata jakunkuna marasa kyau maimakon gyarawa ko sake dawo da su. kunyatar da su, yayin da podcasters auna brands' nasara da kuma rasa.'Yar jarida Amy Odell, marubucin mai zaman kanta "Back Row" Newsletter, mayar da hankali a kan ƙarya kamfanoni da'awar. A cikin hasashenta na 2022: "Bullshit 'dorewa' ikirarin za a ci gaba da dauka. da gaske, ko da yake nan ba da jimawa ba za su fuskanci ƙaƙƙarfan ƙa'ida a Amurka" Ta lura cewa "a wannan shekara FTC za ta sake duba ka'idojin 'kore'," wanda ke da nufin taimakawa 'yan kasuwa su guji yin ikirarin muhalli da ke yaudarar masu amfani."
Tare da "cin kasuwa mai ƙima" da "dorewa na zaɓin samfur" a kan haɓaka, yanzu lokaci ne mai dacewa don ganin yadda waɗannan ayyuka suka dace da ayyukan da suka gabata. Ta yaya yunƙurin da masu zanen kaya da masu saye suke yi a halin yanzu suna cin karo da kakanninsu na kayan ado (kamar Maison). Félix da House of Worth) da savvy na kasa da kasa abokan ciniki?Me za mu iya koya daga 19th karni sadaukar da reusability da upcycling, inganci fiye da yawa?
A ƙarshen karni na 19, salon Faransanci shine siyan kayan alatu na ƙarshe ga mata masu hannu da shuni na Amurka.Matan da ke kashe dubban daloli akan rigunan Faransanci suna haɓaka jarin su ta hanyar sake dawo da su - saka su sau da yawa a cikin yanayi ko shekaru, sabanin abin da ya faru. Suna yin da kayan ado mafi mahimmancin su Babu bambanci. Ko dai suna sanya rigar a ainihin asali, sake gyara ta, ko kuma hayar masana'anta na asali ko tela na gida don gyara ta. Waɗannan ayyukan suna nuna fifiko ga kayan alatu kuma suna da tushe sosai. a cikin al'adun sarautar Turai.Kamar yadda marubuci kuma mai kula da tarihi Kate Strastin ya bayyana a cikin Gidan Sarauta: Tarihin Tufafi na Sarauniya Alexandra, Alexandra, Gimbiya Wales, ta sa mai sana'anta Lady Liz da kamfani suka canza rigar bikin aure da aka yi a Burtaniya zuwa rigar yamma. A cikin Maris 1863, 'yan kwanaki bayan aurenta da Edward VII.Strastin ya gaya mana cewa don 1874 Marlborough Ball, Kamfanin Elise ya dace da kayan da Alexandra w.Tama a Waverley Ball a London a 1871. Tufafin yana ɗauke da alamar Elise kuma an adana shi a yau a cikin tarin tufafin bikin sarauta a fadar Kensington.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain ya sanye da rigar siliki mai launin shuɗi iri ɗaya na House of Worth tare da yadin da aka saka, beading da karammiski zuwa abubuwan kotu daban-daban guda biyu a London a cikin Maris da Yuli 1893. Taron farko shine liyafar liyafar a dakin zane na Sarauniya Victoria a Fadar Buckingham. kuma na biyu shine bikin auren Duke da Duchess na York (daga baya Sarki George V da Sarauniya Maryamu) .Ta kuma saba aika kayanta na Worth zuwa gidan kayan gargajiya don gyarawa, kamar yadda ta yi lokacin da take son yadin da aka saka na Van Dyke. abin wuya akan rigar satin ja.
A farkon shekarun 2000, mata masu daraja a Amurka sun ɗauki tsarin sarauta don sake sa tufafi. Lokacin da Elizabeth Patterson na Baltimore ta auri Jerome Bonaparte a 1803, ta sa rigar farar muslin da aka yi wa ado, wadda ta saba sawa sau da yawa tun.Nancy Fowler McCormick's Rigar Faransa , yanzu a cikin tarin Cibiyar Tarihin Tarihi ta Chicago, tana nuna alamun an sake sawa. Ta halarci taron zamantakewa da yawa tare da mijinta, miliyoniya Cyrus Hall McCormick, kuma ta sa rigar Worth zuwa bikin auren ɗanta a 1904.
Yawancin riguna da yawa sun zama kayan gado, an rubuta su a cikin wasiyya, sannan ya rage ga magada su zaɓi yadda za su sa su, tare da ko ba tare da gyare-gyare ba. A cikin tarihinta, Alva Vanderbilt Belmont ta tuna yadda ita da 'yan'uwanta suka daraja shawl ɗin gashin raƙumi. Daga baya Alva da diyarta Consulo sun yi amfani da yadin da aka saka a rigunan bikin aurensu.Hakazalika, a shekara ta 1883, wata mai ba da agaji Caroline Louisa Williams Bafaranshiya ta Boston, Massachusetts, ta sayi wani shudi mai duhu. karammiski mai datti da gashin chinchilla da alamar Maison Lipman na francs 1,600. Alamar, wacce Madame Camille Lipman ke gudanarwa, ta yi aiki a Paris a cikin 1880s, kuma abokan cinikinta sun haɗa da Maria Pia, Sarauniyar Portugal. Bayan shekaru 37, Alice Williams Pearse , dan asalin kasar Faransa, an nuna hoton sa cikin riga da jakar chinchilla, ba tare da riga ba, a wani taron bikin cikar gyaran fuska na goma sha tara, wanda gyaran ya baiwa mata 'yancin kada kuri'a. Kayayyakin da hotuna yanzu suna cikin H.Orme Wilson Jr. da Richard Thornton Wilson III sun ba da gudummawar tarin riguna ga Gidan Tarihi na Gidan Tarihi na Gidan Tarihi na Gidajen Worth, Doucet, da Paquin, suna ƙara ba da haske game da yadda kwalliya ta girma ta hanyar reshe na iyali guda Feel. .Yan uwan Wilson su ne 'ya'yan William Buckhouse Astor Jr. da 'yar Caroline Astor Carrie.
Don abubuwan da suka faru kamar Ball na Centennial da aka gudanar a duk faɗin ƙasar a cikin 1876, mata sun ba da izinin riguna waɗanda ke kwaikwayon waɗanda kakanninsu ke sawa a cikin hotuna da hotuna. Wasu mata sun yi amfani da guntu daga tarin yadin da aka saka na sirri a lokuta daban-daban, kamar yadda Astors suka yi, waɗanda suka tattara Flemish na ƙarni na 18 da yadin Faransanci, wasu daga cikinsu sun tsira. A wajen bikin ɗiyarta Helen da James R. Roosevelt A shekara ta 1878, Caroline Astor ta yi alfahari da sanye da baƙar rigar karammiski tare da dattin yadin da aka saka mai shekaru 200.
Wata hanyar da za a sake amfani da ita ita ce ta shara daga masu gida zuwa ga kuyanginsu ko kuma masu karbar sadaka.Caroline Astor ta ba da gudummawar tufafi ga wani asibitin mata, yayin da Cornelia Stewart, wacce ke da aure da dillali AT Stewart, an ce ta ba wa wata mata wasu daga cikin kayanta. Bukatar Singer a cikin kayan wasan kwaikwayo. Kamar yadda Diana de Marley (marubucin "History of Haute Couture") da Kate Strastin suka nuna, al'adar ta kasance samfuri ne na al'adar sarauta na Turai na ba da rigar ga 'yan mata, Sarauniya Victoria da Alex haka Gimbiya Sandra.Wales.Wata hanya kuma ita ce sayar da riguna ga dillalai na biyu, zuriyar cinikin da aka daɗe a Turai a cikin tufafin da aka yi amfani da su. .A ƙarni na 19, membobin gidan sarauta za su sayar wa wasu dillalan tufafi.
Tun daga farkon karni na 18, Ingila kuma tana da tarihin sayar da tufafin sarauta da masu daraja a kan musayar tufafin tsofaffi a Gabashin London, kamar yadda Jennifer Le Zotte ya yi bayani a cikin littafinta Daga Goodwill zuwa Grunge. Ta kara bayyana cewa a New York, mai karfi na biyu- Kasuwancin hannu a Yankin Gabas ta Tsakiya ya kara ruruwa saboda zuwan ɗimbin baƙi na baya-bayan nan na Turai tsakanin 1880 zuwa 1920, waɗanda galibi Yahudawa ne waɗanda suka ƙware wajen yin fatali da ɗinki. kamar yadda ake ganin ana haramta wa masu shaye-shaye a kai a kai wajen siyan kayan sawa wajen sayar da kayan agaji.A nan ne kyamar Yahudawa ta shiga wasa domin a tarihi ana ganin yahudawa ne suka mamaye wannan sana’ar, wanda hakan ya faru ne saboda lalura da aka hana su sana’o’insu, suka koma keken yawon bude ido. tallace-tallace.
Masu yin wasan kwaikwayo suna samun ƙwararrun yadda ake samun da kuma sarrafa kayayyaki masu tsada.Lokacin da mawaƙin opera Emma Abbott ya mutu a shekara ta 1891, ƴan wasan kwaikwayo Jeanne Kimball ta sayi Worth da Félix gown Abbott da suka saka a Carmen shekaru kaɗan da suka shige. Tauraro a kan mataki.Lokacin da Elena ta Montenegro ta kasa amfani da sabbin riguna da yawa na Félix na wani ɗan lokaci a cikin makokin Sarkin Italiya Umberto na farko da 'yan adawa suka kashe, ma'aikacin ma'aikacin ya fara sanya su a baje kolin Universal a Paris A kan nunin 1900. Yayin da yake ziyara baje kolin, Francesca Redding ya yaba da rigar siliki da chiffon mai launin ganye, ya siya, kuma cikin sauri ya sanya shi a kan mataki. Abokin wasan kwaikwayo Eves bayan mutuwarta kuma ƴan wasan kwaikwayo da yawa sun saka ta, a cewar rahotanni..A ƙarshe, ƴan wasan kwaikwayo Sadie Martinot ta sayar da kayanta na Worth da Félix a gwanjo a watan Mayu 1894 akan dala 35,000 (fiye da dala miliyan 1.1 a yau) . a cikin 1892, "tare da skirts, skirts, da Basque tufafi sun rataye zurfi uku ko hudu".
Masu saye a cikin shaguna na biyu sune mata masu tsaka-tsaki waɗanda tufafinsu za su dade har tsawon shekaru.Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh ta takardun Illinois a cikin mujallarta da masana'anta na zane-zanen tufafin da ta dace da za ta sake yin ko kuma "ya tsage" tsawon shekaru, ciki har da wanda ta sa. a World Columbia Show in Chicago Suits, musamman, an gudanar da taron a lokacin rikicin kudi na kasa na 1893. Tare da tsarawa da kulawa da hankali, ana iya adana tufafi da kuma sawa akai-akai. Yayin da ruwan sama, laka, asu da mold ke kara damuwa, da yawa. Tufafin da aka yi da shi yana aiki a matsayin shamaki tsakanin mai da datti da mafi yawan tufafin.
Al'adar samun abin da kuke so sannan kuma sake dawo da ita, yadawa da musanya shi ya haifar da rarraba kayan gargajiya na Faransanci a cikin tarin tarin yawa a duniya. Kamar yadda Strastin ya nuna, Ƙungiyar Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Amirka da Anderson Art Gallery sun yi gwanjon rigar Sarauniya Alexandra a 1937. , kuma kashi ɗaya cikin huɗu na Erin Lewison ne ya saya kuma an sayar dashi a Gidan Tarihi na Fasaha na Metropolitan An kafa Makarantar Tufafi.
Ko da yake waɗannan kayan ba su da masaniyar zamantakewar al'umma a cikin tunanin yau - furs, fuka-fukan tsuntsaye masu ban sha'awa, har ma da riguna tare da taxidermy critters suna da kyawawa - muna iya godiya da wani abu mai mahimmanci a cikin lokacin , ayyukan sake amfani da su, da abin da muke kira yanzu upcycling. alatu na Faransanci da suka siya, matan Amurka sun kawo wani takamaiman aiki a kasuwa.ThredUp, Poshmark da The RealReal fifikon manufar, da gangan tsawaita rayuwar sutura a matsayin zaɓin mabukaci mai ɗa'a da nesa da duk wani abin da ake so. ƙarshen karni na sha tara, a cikin mafi girman da'irori na zamantakewa, babu wani abin da zai kawar da kyama.
Don aron wa'adin kamfanin ilimi na Motif, matan Amurkawa waɗanda suka sayi kayan Faransanci a ƙarshen ƙarni na 19 sun gabatar da "samfurin madauwari wanda aka kera tufafin tare da amfani da gaba". .
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jayayya[0]:window.location.hostname;idan (! ==r.length)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Kwanan wata.yanzu()),a=”rubuta”; yi{t=r.slice(i).join( ".");var c = sabon Kwanan wata (Abu (g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,"Lax",t,void 0),x.getCookie (o,void 0)===a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,"","Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT", banza 0,t, banza 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=aiki(){r||(r=!0,e())}; Abu (g.logInfo)("".concat(E,"- 拍卖延迟 ").concat(j," 最多获取 ids"),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)}sai caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END , 函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(aikin(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&e() }函数 K( e,t){H(aiki(){!aiki(e,t){[e].wasu(aiki)(e){dawo!Array.isArray(e)||!e.tsawon})||e.forEach(aikin(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(aiki(e){var n=aiki(e,t){dawo Array.isArray(e)&e.长度&&t?e.ce ). idObj).ga Kowa(aiki(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n]}),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder); Abu.keys(n).tsawon&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))})})}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]) nemo (aiki (e) {komawa e.source===S });if(n&&”string”==nau'in Abunda(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ) {var r=n.uids[0].id.maye gurbin(/[\W_] /g,"");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.tsawon?{anyi:!0}:{yi :!1,darajar:e[r++]}},e:function(e){jefa e},f:i}}jefa sabon TypeError("Invalid尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代，靡可迭代，靡必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o,a=!0,c=!1;dawowa{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ){var e=n.gaba();dawo a=e.yi ,e},e:aiki(e){c=!0,o=e},f:function(){gwada{a||null==n.dawowa||n.dawowa()}最后{idan(c)jifa o}}}}(i) ); gwada{don(ss();!(a=sn()).anyi;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(abu (g.logInfo)("".concat(E,"- 刷新").concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.length&&N(h), Abu(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} kama(e){se(e)}ƙarshe{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c) ),t&&t()} sauran Abu (g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 kuki,退出模块”))})} var Y=Abin (fb)(fb) ",aikin(e,t){dawowa{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&t.hasValidated}},"gatacceGdprEnforcement");函数 Z(e,t,n,r){idan (e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;idan("lambar"==nau'in e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=sabon Kwanan wata(M(e.config.storage," karshe”));a=c&& Kwanan Wata =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”aiki”==nau'in e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”aiki”==nau'in i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.Confi g.isPlainObject)(s)&&("aiki"==nau'in s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) )}}函数$(e){don(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshhold&&function(e,t,n) ,i){koma t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(aikin){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t)))} ,15):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=aiki( ){dawo t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=aiki(){koma t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.jiki.abokin cinikiWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=aiki (n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect(); mayar i.top>=0&i.left>=0&i .kasa=o.length) 返回 {完成：真 }; 返回 {：真 }; , 值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} jefa sabuwar Kuskuren Nau'in(“对不可迭代实例的迭代尣帍可代例的迭代就帯旆？ ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = gaskiya, didErr = ƙarya, kuskure; mayar {s: aiki s () {shi = o[Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n () {var mataki = it.next (); normalCompletion = step.done; 返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e (_e2) { didErr = gaskiya; 错误 = _e2;}, f: aiki f () {gwada {idan (! NormalCompletion && it.return!= null) it.return ();} 最后 {idan (didErr) jefa kuskure;}}}};} aiki _unsupportedIterableToArray (o, minLen) {idan (! o) dawowa; idan (nau'in o === "string") komawa _arrayLikeToArray (o, minLen); var n = Object.prototype.toString.call (o). yanki (8, -1); idan (n == = "对象" && o.constructor) n = o.constructor.name;idan (n === "Map" ||n === “Saita”) dawo da Array.daga(o);idan (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Array$/.test(n)) mayar _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) {idan (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length; don ( var i = 0, arr2 = sabon Array (len); i
Lokacin aikawa: Janairu-19-2022